A journey to the caliphate that has been. One year after its fall, the capital of the self-declared Islamic State (IS) still lies in ruins. Reconstruction in Rakka is slow. Some of the inhabitants have returned to their buildings, living next door to unexploded booby-traps and submerged corpses. A few hairdressers have re-opened their shops. Outside of the city the Civilian Defence Forces dig up IS mass graves, struggling to identify the human remains. In the prison of Hasaka, some 200 kilometres East of Rakka, freezing ex-fighters of the IS wait for their verdicts.